Friday, 22 August 2014

An Introduction to Shintoism and Shrines in Japan

In this post, I'd like to introduce the indigenous Shinto religion in Japan and explore it's basic beliefs and significant structures.

A large Buddha at a temple in Nagasaki.
I must begin by saying that the Japanese Shinto religion has been gradually influenced since 552 (or 558) by Chinese Buddhism. Chinese Buddhism worships "the Enlightened One", Guatama Siddhartha, who first taught the religion around the 5th or 6th Ce. B.C. in today's Nepal and India. Basic tenements of the religion are a belief in the constantly changing nature of the universe and ourselves, having compassion for all sentient beings, and trying to attain self-control of our lust and anger.

Look closely to see the torii in the distance.
On a rainy day at Miyazaki Jingu.
I find shrines to be beautiful, natural, peaceful places.
Japanese Shintoism is more a perspective and outlook to guide a way of being rather than a strict doctrine. It does not have a founder, written text, or exact set of ethical rules to follow. However, it is still very much a religion because it is an ancient and traditional set of beliefs that promotes divine beings, offers sacred places and rituals of worship, and explores ideas about the relationships within the universe.

Lots of well manicured greenery
at shrines, revering nature.
The word Shinto means "way of the Gods", and so Shintoism believes in the existence of various forms and levels of divine beings found throughout the universe (神 - Kami). There are generally three categories of these Kami; those associated with nature (the essence of natural rock formations or bodies of water, for example), family ancestors (especially revered by those of noble lineage), and the souls of the auspicious dead (mostly soldiers or war heros who are respected for their bravery and service).

A small offering area
with a shimenawa rope.
According to belief, the two original Kami, and creator beings, were Izanagi and his partner Izanami. Their daughter is Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, who is fittingly the most famous and prominent of the divine beings in the Land of the Rising Sun. Amaterasu is believed to be the divine ancestor of the Emperor of Japan and his lineage. While I don't believe in the mythologies associated with the religion, I still enjoy learning about them and find them interesting and beautiful, especially in terms of their uniqueness and long histories.
Torii and shimenawa in Nagasaki

Most of Japan's famous matsuri (祭り - festivals) are based on Shintoism, and usually offer a way of communication to the Gods in a specific season or to mark a certain life event. (If you continue to follow my blog, I plan to do a brief introduction of all the festivals throughout the year as I experience them). 

Typical ikebana arrangement.
Japan's traditional arts are also linked to Shintoism and adhere to its ideals, for example tea ceremony and ikebana (生け花 - traditional flower arrangement). I have been participating in my school's ikebana club for about a year now, and while the instruction and explanation of the significance is in Japanese and much of it goes over my head, I have definitely (by some kind of osmosis) come to understand some of the basic principles. I'll probably do a separate blog posting about my ikebana club at another time, but here's a photo for now ;)

The most famous (floating) torii at
Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima
Shrines are dedicated to one of these divine beings and are specifically placed in a setting of seeming divine quality because of it's natural beauty. One of the main aspects of Shinto that I love is the respect for nature. Other important ideals of the religion, and which I also truly appreciate, are sincerity (真 - "makoto"; the main guiding force for Shinto ethics), harmony, balance, and an appreciation of aesthetic qualities. And even though there isn't a strict set of rules to abide by, Shintoism believes that these principles will guide people to lead a moral life.

Koma-inu at
Aoshima Jinja, Miyazaki.
When approaching a Shinto shrine (called a "jingu" 神宮 or "jinja" 神社) in Japan, the first thing you will always see is a large (usually) red structure, called the torii gate (鳥居). This gate marks the entrance to the sacred place.

Koma-inu at a Chinese temple in Nagasaki.
Next you will see two koma-inu (狛犬 - lion/dog/fox stone statues) which can be traced to Chinese, Korean, and even Hindu influence. They are known to be guardians who ward off evil spirits. One of these has its mouth open and the other closed, representing the "A" and "M" sounds respectively, which are seen as the first and last sounds and thereby represent the beginning and end of all things.

As you are now approaching closer to the main shrine, it is necessary for you to purify yourself. This is done with water and you will find a chozuya or temizuya (water purification pavilion) with a water dragon guardian and some ladles.

To do the purification properly follow these steps:

Water purification area
at Aoshima Jinja, Miyazaki.
1) Take the ladle in your right hand and pour water over your left hand, being careful not to let the dirty water back into the main water basin.
2) Switch hands and repeat for the right hand.
3) Swap the ladle again back to your right hand and pour some water into your left palm.
4) Take a sip of the water from your left hand to purify your mouth.
5) Wash your left hand again.
6) Pour any remaining water down the handle of the ladle to rinse the area you touched.
7) Place the ladle back face down as you found it.

When you approach the main alter, to make an offering and prayer, follow these steps;

The main offering space at a
beautiful shrine in Kumamoto.
1) Bow deeply twice.
2) Offer a coin into the saisen-bako (collection box) with a gentle toss. The luckier ones to offer are those with a hole in the center; the ¥5 and ¥50 coins.
3) Clap your hands twice (to signal to the gods that you wish your prayer to be heard).
* Sometimes you may also find a suzu (鈴 - long rope with a large bell) to make yourself heard by the Gods.
4) Silently pray.
5) Bow once more deeply to show gratitude.

An example of shimenawa rope and paper.
This is at Udo Jingu, a cave shrine in Nichinan.
Around the shrine area there are a number of other things that you should notice. One is the shimenawa (注連縄 - a large rope with white folded paper hanging from it). This marks the border of the secular area and the sacred place and can even be hung around a sacred tree or rock. The mythology behind these is actually also the story of the beginning of Japan...

The story says that at one time Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, was saddened by her younger brother Susanoo, a mischievous storm deity. He had ruined her garden with his powerful winds and so she hid in a cave and the Gods were suffering without light. Finally, after weeks, the other Gods coaxed her out with music and dancing and then shut the door of the cave with a huge boulder so she could not return. The moment when Amaterasu came out of the cave is said to be the beginning of Japan.
"Ema" - wishes hung by a shrine in Miyazaki.

My omikuji and omamori :)
You will also see small wooden slabs hung around with a picture of a horse (the divine steed) on one side and writing on the other. These are called "ema" (絵馬) and are bought and then wishes are written on them.

Other things that you can buy are "omikuji" (御神籤), which are paper fortune slips, and "omamori" (御守り), which are material talisman. The omikuji come in varying levels of luck, and those that you see tied and left on a wooden structure are those of bad luck that are wished to be returned. The omamori come in different colours and patterns to represent luck for different things, such as health, studies, love, safe passage, general good fortune, etc.

Unfavourable omikuji are returned.
So as I continue with my blog, explaining about my life in Japan, please remember the significance of Shintoism!

Sources:

www.world-religions-professor.com
http://www.miyajima.or.jp/english/shinto.html
http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/2007/09/04/reference/japans-shinto-buddhist-religious-medley/#.U_aTccWSxfs

In my next post;
Shiny, Happy People Exploring Miyazaki

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